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African Headdresses - African Wigs

 

Coiffes Africaines – Perruques Africaines - Garnitures de Tęte Africaines

 

Afrikanischer Kopfschmuck - Afrikanische Frisur - Afrikanische Kopfbedeckung

 

 

 

 

Zulu Hats - Zulu Headdress

 

Human Hair & Fabric Hats worn by Zulu Women

 

 

A Celebration of Zulu Creativity

 

 

 

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In the 19th century - Zulu women sported coiffures that protruded to the rear of the head (above top left). Following contact with Europeans, their hair fashion developed into removable hats. Human hair remained a part of these creations, as though to suggest the removable coiffure was a fixed extension of the head. These headpieces continued to increased in size to a point where on hot days, they served the dual purpose of an umbrella.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

An exceptional Collection - Zulu human hair Hats

 

 

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Profile and Rear View of Mounting

 

Here follows some of the largest Zulu human hair hats known. Their internal structure is made up of grass basketry. Their exceptionally thin form is extremely rare - as evidenced above (left). All are mounted in a like manner to these examples. As a result, the objects may be viewed from any direction. Stands are included.  Frontal views of our collection follow.

 

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                                            Item 465                                                                Item 466                                                                   Item 467  

 

                                    Item  468                                                                     Item 9372                                                                       Item 9373

 

                                       Item 9375                                                                     Item 9777                                                                   Item 9779

 

Note that only one of our Zulu hats has a black circle in the centre. It and others like it, as well as ones with big black circles - crosses - stars and so on, have been tampered with through market demand. Such markings are NOT traditional and therefore are NOT authentic design. We pride ourselves in dealing authentic, so excuse us - but one slipped in.

 

  Item 8726

 

The Zulu hat above also contains human hair. This is of a more common or typical form then the thin examples. It was constructed to flare outwards from the head. Here again, the mounting allows the hat to be viewed from multiple directions.

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Fabric Zulu Hats

 

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Item 7078

Item 7078

 

Over time, human hair hats gave way to those covered entirely with cotton fiber. Thousands of detailed stitches added strength and design. The inner construction remained sturdy basketry work. Though this hat is old and well used, others continue to be made today for special occasions.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Why did Zulu hats become smaller?

 

Zulu hats became smaller through the evolution of South African transport. From the first half of the 20th century, rural and local transport was provided exclusively by large government owned buses or 'bus trailers'. These bus-trailers were for the most part driven by white drivers who hauled their black passengers around. Configurations as shown below, operated until the end of the 1980s.

 

 

A South African  Bus Trailer

 

Once South Africans of all races were licensed to transport themselves, large Zulu hats fell out of fashion. The reason for this was the limited space afforded by minibuses for travellers.

 

 

 

Twenty three people and a goat pack into a South African minibus taxi.

 

So now you too know the 'inside' story! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fabric Zulu Hats displayed with a Ring

 

 

 

Zulu fabric hat called - Isicolo.

 

The following smaller examples came into fashion from the 1980's. They are slightly larger than a person’s head. We added black rings to our mounting presentation for display purposes, which are included and/or easily removed. Like the larger human hair hats above, these too can be displayed from all directions. (bottom row - lower right)

 

 

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                           Item 464                                                                        Item 296                                                                    Item 8643

 

                                  Item 8740                                                                        Item 8742                                                              Ring Reverse

 

Caution: Be warned that "related others" with large white circles at the center, have been intentionally altered buy their inventors. White anything in the center is culturally incorrect.

 

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Herero Ekori Bonnet

 

Namibia - German South West Africa

 

Circa 1900

 

 

Herero - Near old German mission cemetery in Okahandja - Otjozondjupa Region - 1900

 

The Herero or Ovaherero - were once nomadic herds people who at the time of first European contact, lived in Namibia and Botswana. They comprised several subgroups, which include the Himba, Ovatjimba, Mbanderu or Ovambanderu and the Kwandu. Related groups living in Angola included the Kuvale, Zemba, Hakawona, Tjavikwa, Tjimba and again the Himba.

 

Click any image for a larger resolution picture.

 

Herero Ekori's are perhaps the rarest of all African headdresses. We have identified less than a dozen examples in museums and only 3 in private collections. They were worn by married women on special occasions as well as brides. According to Gordon D. Gibson, a former curator of African Anthropology at the Smithsonian Institute, Herero women could not be seen in public with a bare head. The three 'horns' symbolized cattle, which provided much of Herero food, milk and clothing. Three horns were used to represent the superiority of the Herero over their cattle.

 

Click either image for a larger resolution picture.

 

The elevated horns are more than double the height of Himba Ekori's. They seem to face the rear of the head and are attached to a leather skull helmet. Each 'horn' was decorated with extremely fine, highly tooled detailed design patterns. 

 

 

 

Herero - German SouthWest Africa - Circa 1900

 

The knowledge that we have of Herero Ekori bonnets was gained from studying the few that remain, together with photographic records. The absence of Herero age old dress in present day culture was the result of the Herero and Namaqua Genocide.

 

Click either image for a larger resolution picture.

              Detail of leather tooling and fine atheistic stitching.            Iron beads or currency wealth.

 

For hundreds of years iron beads were considered currency and thus constructed into heavy anklets, decorative pendants for costume, or as stylized veils or hair attached to Ekori bonnets. To the rear of this Herero Ekori hang two sections of iron beads with the periodic spacers.

 

It is estimated that about 2000 pastoralist Herero escaped the Germans traveling eastwards in small numbers to the Kalahari desert, into what was then the British protectorate of Bechuanaland. These people arrived with little or no cattle and became subservient to the Tswana - Bechwana. Ruled under the British crown, they discarded their traditional costume and adapted Victorian colonial dress. For the most part, Herero women of today have retained that fashion. After 100 years, those who migrated back to Namibia, continue to dress in a like manner. The 'nowadays' Herero seem unable to identify old Herero dress or the Ekori - when shown 19th century photos.

 

 

Click any image for a larger resolution picture.

 

Three Herero women from Namibia in Victorian Dress

 

 

 

These five woman in four images are Mbanderu - Herero from Botswana - Circa 2004

 

 

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Hundreds of years -  if not one thousand of years - of Herero custom lives on. It is still not appropriate for Herero to expose their heads in public. The above photographs depict Herero and Mbanderu - Herero woman today, wearing the fabric Victorian era headdresses which had replaced their Ekori. Despite the atrocities of the German genocide, the  Herero have endured and are prospering in 21st century Namibia.   

 

 

Click any thumbnail for a larger resolution image of our extremely rare Herero Ekori bonnet. This is a once in a lifetime opportunity to obtain such a headdress on the www - one which is unlikely to be repeated again.

 

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Himba Ehando Wig

 

Worn by Young Girls at Puberty

 

 

 

    

 

 

Young Himba Women wearing Ehando wigs.

 

Between the ages of seven years and puberty, girls often wear wigs over their loosely hanging plaits during ceremonial festivities. These wigs are passed on from mother to daughter and quite rare in collections.

 

Galerie Ezakwantu offers a choice of two.

 

 

 

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Example A

 

 

Made of elephant and or buffalo hide, twisted baobab fiber, glass beads, iron beads, fat and ochre.

 

 

 

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Example B

 

 

Examples like these are extremely rare in museum collections.

 

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Mbukushu Wig - 1940's

 

Botswana - Namibia - Southern Angola

 

Mambukush Mampukush Mbukushi Humbukush

 

 

 

 

Mbukushu Woman - Caprivi - Dr. Daan Botes

 

 

 

Humbukush Wig

 

Both young and old Mbukushu 'Humbukush' women wore removable wigs  as coiffeurs. These were constructed from leather, plant fiber, then covered with ochre, animal fat and decorated with beads.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This Mbukushu wig is decorated with Venetian glass beads that predate1920. Old coiffures like this are rare as they were in fashion during a period when the Mbukushu were seldom visited .

 

     

 

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Circe 1920 - Mbukushu - Ivys Albums - Local Court

 

 

 

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Click (Hair-Styles, Headdresses and Ornaments in Namibia and Southern Angola) to buy the book.

 

 

 

Mbukushu Wig

 

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Himba Ekori Bonnet

 

Angola and Namibia

 

 

 

     

 

 

Himba woman wearing Ekori headdresses.

 

Galerie Ezakwantu offers a choice of two.

 

 

 

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Example A

 

 

When a  young girl has completed her puberty ceremony, the so called Ekori festival takes place. At this stage she receives the Ekori headdress, and according to Kuvare (1977), only then becomes marriageable. The Ekori is made of tanned sheep or goatskin and has three leaf-shaped points, sometimes decorated with iron beads.

 

 

 

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Example B

 

 

 

As soon as a young woman begins to wear the Ekori, long thin plaits (ozondjise) are made for her. Should she marry in the meantime she must observe a number of taboos while she wears the Ekori. She is only regarded as a fully-fledged woman only after she has borne a child.  When a woman has been married for about a year or has had a child, her Ekori headdress is replaced by the erembe headdress. (Below) The Ekori is from then on worn only during ceremonial occasions.

 

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Zemba Headpiece

 

Angola - Namibia

 

 

Zemba women wear headdresses that display to the back of the head.

 

        

 

Both the Zemba and Hakawana wear these head pieces. The woman above is Hakawana from Angola. The Zemba live on both sides of the Angolan and  Namibian border.

 

 

This example is one of the best we have ever seen. It is fashioned on to a leather base or flap, which is attached with thongs. Brightly painted tin cans encircle numerous leather strips. Shells, glass beads and animal hair add further to the decoration. A special touch is made by the addition of triangular iron beaded pendants constructed at the bottom of the flaps.

 

     

 

Zemba Women - Angola

 

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Himba Erembe Headpiece

 

Angola and Namibia

 

 

 

     

 

 

Himba Women of various ages wearing Erembe head adornments.

 

 

 

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As mentioned, the Ekori headdress is replaced by the Erembe headdress once a woman has been married for a year or gives birth to a child. The Erembe is made of skin of a goat’s head, fat and ochre. It is fastened under the hair at the back of her head by two thongs.  The women’s platelets are gradually lengthened. They may buy hair from other women.

 

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Zulu Wig / Headdress

 

South Africa

 

 

 

 

 

 

This headdress sports a beaded pin worn to the rear.

 

 

 

 

 

      

 

The numerous red spaghetti sections are made of ochre twine, coiled around cotton wool. In earlier times the twine was coiled over plant fiber.  We know of only 3 or 4 related examples in collections.

 

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Mfengu Woman's Turban

 

Iqhiya - Ibhayi

 

Fingo Turban

 

 

The Mfengu are Nguni people, mostly of Bhele, Hlubi and Zizi origin, who fled during the early 19th century upheavals in Natal known as the Mfecane - Lifaqane or Difaqane. They arrived in what is today the Eastern Cape - where they were eventually suppressed by the local Xhosa chiefs. Their tribal name Ama-Fengu, Fingo or Mfengu,  means 'The Wanderers'  or 'Foreigners'. Mfengu speak what we call the Xhosa language, but do not consider themselves Xhosa. Their beaded tribal dress was adapted from the Xhosa, but remained with distinguishing factors. All over the region, a person's home area, ethnic sub group, age, marital status and sometimes the amount of children one had, could all be communicated through items of dress.

 

 

 

Mlanjeni's War - Eighth Frontier War - Circa 1851

 

In 1835 the Mfengu made representations to the Cape Colony government for land. Sir Benjamin d'Urban permitted them to settle on the banks of the Great Fish River - 'at the Xhosa's expense'. Their location created a buffer zone for the British to ward off further Xhosa invasions of the Cape Colony. Mfengu fought for the British in the Frontier Wars or  'Kaffer Wars' of 1835, 1846 and again between 1851 and  1853.

 

 

 

 

This is an Mfengu woman's turban called an Iqhiya or Ibhayi. It forms the body of a womans headdresses. These were worn to complement a woman's outfit. Sometimes a colourful Santulo is attached, to add volume to the headdress. Barbara Tyrrell's watercolour (below right) shows an Mfengu nursing mother with such a Turban.

 

 

     

 

                                 Mfengu Headdress                                               Barbara Tyrrell - Mfengu (Fingo) Woman

 

 

 Click either image to enlarge.

 

Countless hours are spent embroidering three sides of the dark Melton cloth.

 

 

 

 

 

Mfengu Boys Cap - Fingo Hat

 

 

 

 

Young Mfengu boys sometimes wore beaded 'flat caps'. Few examples were as heavily beaded as this.

 

 

 Click thumbs to enlarge pictures.

 

The young men who wore them were not yet 'men', as they had yet to undergo or experience Abakwetha. Abakwetha is a long and detailed circumcision ritual that passed a boy into manhood.

 

 

 

 

Aubrey Elliot published the picture (above right), in his long out of print book entitled; The Magic World of the Xhosa. Note the cap and headbands worn...

 

 

 

Mfengu - Xhosa Beaded Headband

 

'amadiliza entloko'

 

 

 

 

Large headbands were worn by young men of the Fingo and Xhosa groups living around East London.

 

 

Click either thumb to enlarge image.

 

Young men's headbands were called amadiliza entloko.

 

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BaSotho - Sotho - Ba Sotho Hat

 

South Africa - Lesotho

 

Modianyeoe

 

 

J R Ivy Album Collection - Basutoland

 

Sotho hats have been worn by Suto-Chuana - Setswana speakers for centuries.

 

Click Image for Larger Picture

 

Our example was rediscovered in the UK. Its age confirms it would have arrived there during the early 20th century. This style is commonly referred to as modianyeoe.
 

 

Meeting of Peter Wright and Mothibi -1835

 

Sotho hats predate colonial rule. This sketch records Peter Wright's visit to Dithakong in 1835 where he met the Tlhaping (Sotho-Tswana) chief Mothibi. Chief Mothibi is holding a staff - and wears a cape and Sotho hat. 

 

 

J R Ivy Album Collection - Basutoland - Circa 1940

 

Men wove the hats from plant fiber. Note the abstract shapes surmounting a completed hat placed on the ground to the hat makers left - (right side of the picture).

 

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Our example is mounted on a custom made stand. (right image)

 

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European influence altered Sotho cap finals. Over time, the "crown" fashioned modianyeoe developed. It came to represent status and prestige - as well as displayed skilled talent.

 

      

 

       Duggan-Cronin - The Southern Basotho - Circa 1930           J R Ivy Album Collection - Basutoland - Circa 1940

 

Plate LIX of Duggan-Cronin's "The Bantu Tribes of South Africa - The Suto-Chuana Tribes" makes reference that the function of the hat was to deflect rain and that a persons blanket was drawn up around the neck in wet weather.

 

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Pondo - Mpondo Wig

 

South Africa

 

 

       

 

Pondo women wore decorative wigs or headdresses during the late 19th and 20th centuries.

 

This wig is the combination of three separate articles, joining into the resulting elegant object.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Headdresses of the Mpondo are rare in collections.

 

 

 

 

 

 

         

 

Cords were made from plant fiber, ochre  and beads then  applied. 

 

Over the years we have had a number of these and this example  will likely be the last offered.

 

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Yaka - Suku Beaded Crowns

 

Democratic Republic of the Congo - DRC

 

 

 

 

Gallery Ezakwantu has no intention to make these fine crowns appear common and they are not. We target rare and beautiful objects and as a result, can only take pleasure offering you these.

 

 

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Example A

 

A fabulous example dating to the mid 1900's..

 

 

 

 

 

 

Suku Chief / Congo

 

Crowns were worn by headmen and the chief.

 

 

Another

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Example B

 

This is a stunning example with a small beaded protrusion on each beaded horn.

 

 

 

Another

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Example C

 

A stunning and unusual choice of bead colours.

 

 

 

Our Final Example

 

 

 

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Example D

 

 

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Compliments of...

 

Gallery Ezakwantu

 

World leaders in aesthetically pleasing, authentic tribal art from Southern Africa.

 

Visit our Gallery Links

 

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Weapons - Central Africa

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If your family traded, visited or lived in Africa, or if you know of others who did and remain with old beadwork, pipes, sticks or ethnic photographs, please contact us. Click the treasure box above to learn more.

 

 

 

 

 

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Ken Karner vintage antique artefact artifacts artifact artefacts beaded headdress south african artifact southern africa southern african  Afrikanischer Hut